Snivy14's advert:
Rare items and other things in my shop everything must go
anyone got a little advice?
Started By
hey guys, at the beginning of the summer holidays I got a dog, he is currently 7 months old (nearly 8) and is a collie schnauzer cross, he loves trying to play with all the dogs he see but he's a little big for the local dogs and once he sees another dog he's away and it's pointless trying to call him back because he doesn't listen half the time, and lately he's started getting nasty and snarling at some dogs, and barking and snapping and stuff and I was wondering if any of you guys new any ways of stopping him as the other day I had to hold his muzzle closed to stop him from barking and snapping at one of the neighbors dogs, and i'm terrified that he might hurt someone or another dog and I don't want to get him a muzzle if I can help him

09-4-2011 at 6:35 PM
There are many inhumane things that are legal. But that's a whole other topic.

09-4-2011 at 1:25 PM
heh I think that Milo is starting to associate the chain with 'don't pull' and i'd have thought if it had been so inhumane that it would cause pain to animals even if used properly I would have thought they would be banned >.>

09-4-2011 at 1:21 PM
Call me cruel, but I like "choke collars". I learned to use them correctly and they are one of the most useful tools. I only use it on particular dogs - usually the ones who absolutely refuse to listen to any other means of training. Before our training sessions, they regularly dragged volunteers and even big tough kennel workers down to their knees. After I worked with them for a couple weeks, they were a lot easier to walk. If used responsibly and correctly, they're excellent tools.

09-4-2011 at 1:15 PM
oh I know there are cons wit the choke chain but wev'efound it's much easier to control our dog with one than with a halti... we also have a harness for him, he doesn't pull so much with that either, though if he has to wait around with it on he chews through the chest strap so mu mum is having to custom fit it to the right tightness...

09-4-2011 at 1:11 PM
Choke collars aren't spikey... Prong collars have prongs.<br /> <br /> Prong collars are safer to use on a dog than a choke chain. The risk of injury is far lower and the correction is more clear. <br /> <br /> I do not recommend either, but then again I don't like corrective tools. <br /> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBnFOWFqEhI<br /> <br /> A halti is by far a safer option. And I'm extremely surprised anyone knowledgeable in veterinary medicine would suggest a choke chain. Most are educated in the cons of them.

09-4-2011 at 12:54 PM
thanks tiger:P <br /> my cousin has halties for her dogs and the middle one still pulls like mad and if she forgets to put them on or if my aunt has them (my sunt thinks anything other than the collar or a t-shirt is cruel) they go insane, thats why we gotour dog the choker so it simulates the collar...<br /> ... that what wev'egot the chain thanks for the definition celest :P<br /> <br /> *edit* just looked up choke collars... eep... spikey...
edit history
2011-09-04 12:58:09 by #623
2011-09-04 12:56:02 by #623

09-4-2011 at 12:52 PM
Choke chollars should absolutely not be used on a pulling dog. That puts the dog at high risk for a collapsed trachea. A choke chain, more appropriately called slip chains were invented as correction collars. Just like a prong.<br /> <br /> @Tiger, I like Haltis if used properly they're very handy, and can be handy in situations with reactive/aggressive dogs if used properly.I however don't like Gentle Leaders, they're too thin for me and insecure. The halti also clips on the collar so it's safer in my opinion.

09-4-2011 at 12:28 PM
I really like the Haltie/Gentle leaders, if used right they are one of the most humane training collars made. Its the idiots that YANK their dogs head back when they surge forward that give them a bad rap. or the halters that turn them around when they surge forward but i don't like halters except for dogs doing pulling sports or dogs with tender tracheas

09-4-2011 at 12:23 PM
thanks celest, when you say choke collar classes what do you mean? because we got the dog a choke chain to help stop him pulling (one of my mums friends who worked in a vets suggested it) and it seems to have settled him down for the majority of the walk :

09-4-2011 at 11:35 AM
Actually you cannot judge what attacks most. As said by the Center Of Disease Control, not all bites are reported, not all are reported accurate. Therefore you really can't say anything bites more than another thing.<br /> <br /> But with documentation it does lean towards non-neutered dogs. Which makes sense because bites happen with irresponsible owners, and most of those owners don't give a rap about neutering their animal.<br /> <br /> I'm glad to hear you're getting classes, avoid correctional, choke collar, prong collar classes. Clicker training can be fun, if you get more into it you can free shape behaviors with your dog (teach them to do something without saying a word or using your hands) Markers can be very important to training, and they don't have to be clickers they can be verbal too. I use "Yes!" to mark desired behaviors.<br />

09-4-2011 at 8:52 AM
hehe thanks again guys :P and he's usually quite good on walks roo... he pulls for around 5 mins ten calms down, unless he knows he's going to the field XD

09-4-2011 at 8:35 AM
Agreed with Gamzee. I've met many unaltered males at the shelter who absolutely will not tolerate another male dog (neutered or not) in their personal space (or anywhere, for that matter). I've also seen neutered males who went after an intact male. Then again, I know two dogs currently (Jacob and Ned XD) who aren't fixed and get along wonderfully (one's a BC/Husky mix and the other is a Pit/Husky or something). It all depends on the dog. Sounds like your pup just had a run-in with some not-so-tolerant males! <br /> <br /> How is he on a leash now? Does he pull way out in front, or is he manageable? One thing I found that helps with leash training is the change of direction trick. Whenever the dog starts to surge out ahead, you switch directions really quickly, make a beckoning sound (either kissy noises or "Come on!") and go the other way. Eventually he'll realize that he needs to keep an eye on you cause you're prone to switching directions out of the blue. XD

09-4-2011 at 8:29 AM
@Gamzee;<br /> Actually most of the attacks are done by <em>neutered dogs</em> on intact dogs.<br /> <br /> .. :T I don't feel like getting links though. But 70% of the time, it's a neutered dog thats 'dominating' or hovering over my intact dog and trying to cause a fight.<br /> <br /> edit:<br /> also, theres been a study that neutering an aggressive dog will not help them, and in some cases will cause them to act out more
edit history
2011-09-04 08:31:00 by #17441

09-4-2011 at 8:04 AM
<i>"For good leash manners it's important to teach a dog they can't just run up and meet every dog they see."</i><br>Very true. Some dogs do not like another boisterous, leaping dog coming at them and will snap.<br><br><i>"he gets on with some of my sisters friends dogs andhe was fine with my cousins dogs"</i><br>Your sisters friends' dogs and your cousins dogs would be good training partners! :)<br><br><i>"but because he wasn't nutered when we introduced them 2 of the three boys were alittle nasty with him..."</i><br>This is typical behaviour with unneutered dogs. [I am in no way saying unneutered dogs are mean, vicious and all of them get in fights]. The majority of dog attacks are done by unneutered male dogs. Since he is neutered now, he should be better with other males :)

09-4-2011 at 5:03 AM
hehe thanks guys :P he seems to beok with some dogs which is the odd thing... he gets on with some of my sisters friends dogs andhe was fine with my cousins dogs but because he wasn't nutered when we introduced them 2 of the three boys were alittle nasty with him... it also seems to be non nuetered males he can get a little nasty with so i'mjust assuming thats the whole testosterone thing... and celestial the whole calling away thing I have to have another ball or I have to run away toget his attention... but i'm gonna be taking him to training classes so that should improve him shouldn't it? ^^

09-4-2011 at 12:15 AM
Also, if he reacts towards another dog, growls, barks, etc do not correct him. Don't grab him muzzle, that can cause him to associate negative things with other dogs. Simply call him away, move away. <br /> <br /> For good leash manners it's important to teach a dog they can't just run up and meet every dog they see. That causes them to get excited when seeing other dogs. Instead praise for focusing on you, and give them an "okay" command, a release to visit. <br /> <br /> And when you do meet another dog, keep the leash loose. A tight leash causes tension which could cause a negative reaction. Edit: Just read your post Clay... Oops xD You're correct.<br /> <br /> Feel free to pick at my brain, I've watched many trainers work and spoke/followed behaviorists because I want to be a dog trainer when I'm of age. So I've been storing many things in the back of my head. x)
edit history
2011-09-04 00:15:56 by #3992

09-3-2011 at 7:40 PM
Agreeing with Roo. Also, before you take him to meet other dogs [especially if he already has the tendency to snap], train him how to walk on a leash. When a dog strains on the leash towards another dog, it puts him in a body position that intimidates other dogs and this can lead to fights.
edit history
2011-09-03 19:41:12 by #5484

09-3-2011 at 7:34 PM
Awesome! Neutering usually does help a lot. That's a good place to start - walk him with a dog he's comfortable with, have them spend supervised time together, and then slowly branch out. Maybe introduce your friend's dog to one of your cousin's dogs while he's nearby. I'm not terribly experienced in dog behavior (everything I know I learned from my time at the animal shelter >.&lt;), but I've noticed that if a nervous dog watches an outgoing dog do something, he's less likely to be afraid of it. :)

09-3-2011 at 5:57 PM
thanks roo ^^ and we do a bit of both... and he seems toget on fine with my friends dog so i think I may take him out with her more often... and i'm gonna get him out with my cousins 3 dogs now he'sbeen nuetered so he should get plentyof socialisation :3

09-3-2011 at 11:14 AM
It sounds like he could use some proper doggy socialization. Do you keep him on a leash, or just let him out? If you tend to just let him out, it might be better if you leash-walk him for a while. Make sure he stays next to you - pulling on the leash can get them really excited and tense, and adding another dog to that mix can stir up trouble. If you walk him next to you and encounter another dog, you're in control and don't have to worry about him running off and getting in a fight. If the other person is up for it, let them meet. You can try <a href="http://www.bestfriends.org/theanimals/petcare/dogs.cfm">looking here</a> for training tips. <br /> <br /> As with most situations, I'd recommend finding an experienced trainer.

Login

Username:
Password:
Signup
Username: *
Password:
confirm:
Email:
Birthday:
Referrer:
  • = required field
  • two accounts per person
  • email verification necessary
  • the secret question is in case you forget your username or need to reset your email address